Footwear 

 

Stockings 

Ideal: Period appropriate colored (white preferred) cotton, silk, or wool knitted over the knee stockings with no nylon or elastic component from period knitting pattern or period look-a-like machine knitted stockings. 

Acceptable: White, colored, or period-appropriate patterned cotton, silk, or wool knitted knee length or higher knitted stockings with small (no more than 5%) nylon or elastic component. 

Unacceptable: Any stocking shorter than knee length, socks, non period colors or patterns, stockings/socks with logos on them. 

 

Garters 

Ideal:

1) Knitted wool or cotton in period colors.

2) Clip fasten elastic garters of period passable knit elastic and clasps.

3) wool needlework or beaded center panel garters with either spring steel ‘elasticized’ silk or silk ribbons. 

Acceptable: 100% natural fiber ribbon garters in period colors and designs, faux ‘needlework’ garters using embroidered ribbon as the center panel with silk or linen ribbon ties, woven wool garters 

Unacceptable: Elastic bands, rubber elastic construction, synthetic fiber, machine embroidered ribbons, modern ‘scrunchy’ or wedding garters, garters with lace. 

 

Shoes 

Ideal: Square toed leather or silk/wool/velvet upper with period leather sole and no to ½” heel.  Front or side lacing with hand done eyelets and a silk, linen, or cotton tape/cord for laces.  Period stitching, construction, and techniques.  Boots, shoes, or slippers are acceptable depending on impression/event activities you will be doing (contact event admin if you need more assistance in deciding what you need for your impression). 

Acceptable: Square toed leather or fabric upper with leather sole and no more than 1” heel.  Front or side lacing or with elastic gussets.  Period stitching, construction, and techniques or glued boots/shoes. 

Unacceptable: Non square toes, heels higher than 1”, rubber soles, synthetic uppers, elastic or zippers, sneakers, modern boots, synthetic or grosgrain laces/ties. 

 

Underpinnings 

Chemise 

Ideal: White linen or cotton with short sleeves and yoked neckline. May be plain, tucked, worked in period whitework, or have tatting as decoration. Knee to mid calf length. 

Acceptable: White linen or cotton either in a square yoked style or regency square necked or drawstring neckline. 

Unacceptable: Long sleeves or no sleeves, high necked, colors other than white, shirt length or ankle length, fibers other than linen/cotton. 

 

Drawers 

Ideal: White linen or cotton, split crotch. May be plain, tucked, worked in period whitework, or have tatting as decoration. Mid calf length. 

Acceptable: White linen or cotton, closed crotch, decorated as above.  No drawers at all are also acceptable. 

Unacceptable: Long pantaloons or bloomers, colored drawers, elastic waistbands or hems, lace, bands at the hem. 

 

Corset 

Ideal: Stiff cotton, linen, or silk fabric in period colors with back lacing and a center front hooked busk.  No shoulder straps, plain binding, overbust corset with mid century lines.  May be shaped or gusseted.  Support should be any of the following or mixed: cotton cording (Sugar n’Cream yarn weight), quilting, or boning (spring steel or German plastic whalebone).  Lacing should be cotton and either in spiral or ‘bunny ears’ (looped) in style. 

Acceptable: Natural fiber with mid century lines, front or side lacing, wood/bone busk. 

Unacceptable: ‘Victorian’ corsets, synthetic fibers, natural fibers with patterns or colors, lace or ribbon trimmed, corsets with garters attached, 18th century cone like stays, Regency stays, later 19th century style corsets, not wearing a corset, bras, modern shapewear. 

 

Plain Petticoats 

Ideal: White cotton, with hand stitched button/buttonhole closure.  Hand worked embroidery or plain deep hem for a finished bottom.  Tucks or undecorated are appropriate.  Waist should be gathered or stoke gathered to fit a self fabric waistband.  Printed/patterned/solid wool petticoat in dress weight (10 oz per yard or less) as a top most petticoat is appropriate for working situations.  1st petticoat may be 100% wool flannel or hand quilted (cotton, wool, or silk) petticoat in period appropriate pattern and colors.  Same construction requirements apply. 

Acceptable: White cotton, drawstring closures, machine done embroidery in period patterns and designs, single large tuck, gathered or pleated to waist, period appropriate print or patterned cotton petticoats (‘old’ dress skirts) are acceptable in place of a wool petticoat in working situations as a top most petticoat for working class impressions. 

Unacceptable: Colored solid cotton petticoats, elastic waistbands, hook and eye closures, synthetic fibers, ruffles, cotton or wool petticoats in non period colors or patterns, 18th century style taped petticoats, cotton flannel petticoats. 

 

Corded Petticoats 

Ideal:

1. White cotton petticoat with ⅛”-¼” white cotton cords in a period appropriate pattern of cords, petticoat finished as typical petticoats (stoked gathers, waistband with button/hand stitched buttonhole closures.

2. Hand woven cotton or linen petticoat with ⅛”-⅜” cords woven in.  Stitched entirely with period construction. 

3. Not worn. 

Acceptable: Natural or white cotton or linen petticoat with up to ⅜” cord in period pattern and design, drawstring waist. 

Unacceptable: Petticoats with rope or thick cord, only one or two ropes or cord at the bottom, elastic waistbands. 

 

Crinoline 

Ideal:

1. Reproduction steel wire cage with 20+ wires.

2. Fabric covered cage. 

3. Not worn. 

Unacceptable: Petticoats with rope or thick cord, only one or two steels at the bottom, elastic waistbands. 

 

Dresses 

Working Class Dress 

Ideal dress: Printed cotton or printed/solid colored wool one piece dress in period patterns and colors; bishop or coat sleeves; hook and eye or button closures in front; high neck construction with neckerchief; full skirts hitting below ankle; gauged (cotton or wool) or pleated with a gauged center back (wool only); piping at least in the neckline, waistline, and armscyes; patches acceptable but should be sewn on in a historical way and as discreet as possible; dirt and wear encouraged. 

Acceptable dress: See above but no piping or cotton dresses that are pleated. 

Unacceptable dress: Solid colored cotton dresses, dresses with obvious non-matching patches, blouse and skirt combinations, exterior machine stitching, zippers or velcro as closures, non period colors and patterns. 

Middle Class Dress 

Ideal dress: Printed cotton or printed/solid colored wool or silk one piece dress in period patterns and colors; bishop or coat sleeves; hook and eye or button closures in front; high neck construction with white collar; full skirts hitting below ankle; gauged or pleated/gauged or pleated (knife or box pleats); piping at neckline, waistline, and armscyes. 

Acceptable dress: See above but with piping only at armscyes and waist 

Unacceptable dress: Solid colored cotton dresses, dresses with obvious non-matching patches, blouse and skirt combinations, exterior machine stitching, zippers or velcro as closures, non period colors and patterns, pagoda sleeves (except on sheer dresses). 

Upper Class Dress 

Ideal dress: Cotton, wool, or silk dress in fashionable colors and prints, coat sleeves; hook and eye or button closures in front; high neck with fine white collar; full skirts (120-140”) hitting below ankle; gauged or pleated/gauged or pleated; piping at least in the neckline, waistline, and armscyes. 

Acceptable dress: See above but at least armscyes and waistline piped. 

Unacceptable dress: Solid colored cotton dresses, dresses with obvious non-matching patches, blouse and skirt combinations, exterior machine stitching, zippers or velcro as closures, pagoda sleeves on non sheer dresses, non period colors and patterns. 

 

Outerwear 

Ideal: Various period outerwear featuring period correct construction, period colors, patterns, cloth, and designs.  Outerwear may include (but are not limited to) items such as knit or crochet sweaters from 1864 and prior, wool cloaks, unfitted or semi-fitted wool jackets, wool/knit/crochet/fur pelerines, paletots, wool or knit shawls, oiled silk raincoats, knit/crochet/wool/silk/fur muffs, wrist length leather gloves, and silk or wool mantles.  Outerwear may be of silk, wool, or fur and lined with silk or polished cotton. 

Unacceptable: Pre 1850 or post 1864 patterns or construction, knitted or crochet cotton goods (unless specifically documented), inappropriate fibers for garment. 

 

Accessories and Headwear 

Ideal Accessories: Various accessories featuring period correct construction, period colors, patterns, cloth, and designs.  Accessories may include (but are not limited to) items such as silk neckties, pinner aprons (to be held with straight pins-not safety pins), half aprons, hand fans (rigid or folding), parasols (folding parasols of diameters less than 25” and post 1855 and pre 1865), umbrellas, collars, cuffs, chemisettes, neckerchiefs, handkerchiefs, belts, undersleeves, and jewelry of various articles.  All jewelry must fit within your impression’s socioeconomic status. 

Unacceptable Accessories: Pre 1850 or post 1864 patterns or construction, inappropriate fibers for garment, seen safety pins. 

Ideal bonnets:

1. Cotton corded or slat bonnets in post 1850 and pre 1865 construction.

2. Solid colored silk or straw bonnets in period construction and pattern and in appropriate colors trimmed with vintage florals (no plastics), silk ribbons, and/or feathers.

3. Cotton or linen day or night caps as appropriate 

Acceptable bonnets: Nonobtrusive rayon taffeta or polyester ties on silk or straw bonnets, fashionable hats as appropriate for impression. 

Unacceptable bonnets: Post 1864 style silk or straw bonnets, pre 1860 silk or straw bonnets, obvious synthetic ties, fanchon bonnets, florals with plastics, straw ‘bonnets’ cut from modern straw hats, chunky cotton lace, embroidered trim, eyelet lace. 

 

 

Impression Details 

All things in camp must be at least period passable-no plastics, galvanized metal, enamel pots/pans, etc.  Wrappers are appropriate at night and early morning.  Period nightwear required outside of personal tents.  Hair should be contained in a low bun with a center part.